By: Kristen Tyson, M.A.
When Bailey
and his fellow surveyors began their work in 1889, Texas was in the middle of an
extensive drought and persistent livestock grazing economy. At that time, an
open range system was adopted and cattle were allowed to wander unrestrained
across west Texas. This free roaming system would end by the early 1900s with
the introduction of barbed wire fences and water troughs, but the damage had
already been done. Not only did the cattle
damage the natural landscape, but “Texas’s grassland landscapes were subjected
to [the] rapid encroachment of cacti and woody plants, all associated with a
decrease in prairie wildfires and the
severe overstocking of rangelands (Schmidly 2002).” Farmlands were also
shifting to more diverse crop planting and the number of acres used for growing
crops multiplied exponentially. The sentinels of trees noted by the surveyors
in east Texas were now being cut down for the timber industry, which was
expanding at equal rates to the other industries. The once bountiful forests
were now used to provide homes for the advancing population of settlers coming
to Texas, and with other lands tied up for farming and ranching, for
homesteads.
Due to the
use of natural resources and focus on commerce rather than conservation, Texas
was quickly being transformed from its original beauty and provisions to one of
stripping and waste. “Vast expanses of native prairie that once covered parts
of the state had already been turned under by the plow or overgrown by shrubs
and woody plants (Schmidly 2002).” Photographs taken by the surveyors depicted
a land flowing with fresh water from natural streams, most of which no longer
exist in form or function today. Thus,
even the unique mammals and birds discovered along these oases either
disappeared from the Texas landscape or found their way to more hospitable
regions that had yet to be touched by humans.
Below are
brief descriptions provided by the men and their experiences of Texas in the
early 20th Century.
Gulf Prairies and Marshes:
This part of
Texas was dominated by marshlands and coastal prairies, with open and uniform
land from the beaches to Houston, when not met by the marshlands. Prairie grasses were abundant and often held
pools of water. Native trees were not seen near the islands and coast, except
along natural rivers, with sand dunes and shell ridges being the only
variations to the flat country. Any
timber bordering these lands was already being cut down and processed, quickly
changing the countryside from river land to small pastures where wild animals
were swiftly exterminated (Schmidly 2002).” The greater part of the prairie is
practically without shrubby vegetation, except for [certain ranches] where
hedges of shrubs have been planted as windbreaks for cattle. These hedges have
grown so rank that they threaten to appropriate much more of the prairie than
was intended (Schmidly 2002).” The more southern regions of the gulf exhibited
palm and cedar forests, as well as thick bunches of mesquite, that if not
controlled, would eventually choke out the natural topography.
South Texas Plains:
The
landscape along the Texas-Mexico border and southern plains were dominated by
mesquite but also offered a lesser spread of elm and pecan varieties. Depending
on the location, rivers caused floods and crop damage yet offered the only
evidence of water for settlers to use. Country lacking in water also showed a
preference for more brushy plants and grasses than mesquite. This land was seen as a flat, “treeless
plain, and did not seem to have any sign of animal life whatever, owing perhaps
to the countless bands of sheep and goats that go to the few water holes for
water and have trampled all herbage and soil into a dusty mass (Schmidly
2002).” Near Laredo the land was seen as hilly, rocky and dominated by shrubs
and mesquite, with a rushing Rio Grande north of the town and dry sandy valleys
south of the town.
Edwards Plateau:
Before
Bailey and his agents arrived the “vegetation of the region was about half
forest and half grasslands, [upon their arrival] the area was heavily
overgrazed by cattle, goats, and sheep, and most of the grasses had been
depleted and replaced by less desirable woody shrubs (Schmidly 2002).” This
part of the state was characterized by flat lands, rocky caverns and abundant
streams and springs. Grasses filled the valleys and hardy oaks and junipers
made up the mesas and riverbeds. The remaining lands were extremely fertile and
consisted of corn, wheat, grass, and fruit cultivation. Where trees formerly
did not exist along the western boundary of the plateau, forests of mesquite,
scrub oak and juniper were now increasing and changing the natural topography.
“There are great stretches of smooth surfaces with only short grass and little
desert plants, but much of the country is covered in scattered growth of small
mesquites (Schmidly 2002).” The further
west the surveyors traveled, the less streams and rivers were noted and where
grasslands had been without trees, were now overflowing with woody vegetation.
View of the Trans-Pecos eco-region today
Trans-Pecos, Mountains and Basins:
Like the
other regions, overgrazing was prevalent, but there was also “evidence that
stands of desert scrub were expanding at the expense of grassland habitat,
lumbering of coniferous and hardwood timer was underway, and free standing
natural water was rare throughout the region (Schmidly 2002).” As they visited
the area now known as Big Bend National Park, the surveyors noted not so much a
change in habitat but in wildlife encountered. Mammals, including bighorn
sheep, were no longer inhabiting areas where they formerly had been seen. West Texas was seen as ideal only for stock
raising but without supplemental water from tanks and reservoirs, livestock
would be incapable of survival due to the scarcity of rain and snow
precipitation.
High Plains:
“Probably no
region of Texas has changed more since the time of the biological survey than
has the Staked Plains or Llano Estacado region, [which Bailey visited] just
prior to the time of major human settlement and agricultural development
(Schmidly 2002).” Flat, open grasslands made up of short and tall grasses, and
a scarcity of water were noted by the agents. Although cattle grazing was
evident, grasses were abundant and rich due to average rainfall and ample
drainage into ponds and streams. Even lands around Palo Duro Canyon were
covered in thick grass of a “velvety smoothness (Schmidly 2002)” that impressed
each of the surveyors enough to write about in their personal journals. Creek
beds were full of cottonwood and elms, but otherwise the grasses dominated the
flat plains.
View of the Rolling Plains eco-region today
Rolling Plains:
These native
lands separated the tall-grasses of east Texas from the short and desert
grasses of the south and west. “Originally the vegetation in this country was
predominately tall- and mid-grasses. Massive cottonwoods lined the streams in
the north, and pecans and walnuts were common in the south (Schmidly 2002).”
The plains were ideal for planting crops of cotton or hay, dominated by massive
mesquites and shrubs, and home to an abundance of prairie dogs. For miles the
agents witnessed groves of mesquite, broken up by prairies of short grass and
rolling sand dunes or hills, but like other parts of Texas, noted the drought
and poor quality of crops.
Cross Timbers and Prairies:
“Alternating
belts of deciduous forest and grassland (Schmidly 2002)” made up the northeastern
portion of Texas. Prairies of grasses were marked off by timber so much that
surveyors realized that the “continuous bodies of timber usually marks the
limit of range of many species of animals (Schmidly 2002).” Other factors were
evaluated, but lack of cover and ample cover were viewed as the main
distinction that changed the faunal transition in this particular region.
Blackland Prairies:
This area
between the timber and prairies yielded little information “because the
landscape was already so altered that it held little promise of yielding
wildlife (Schmidly 2002).” Before settlers made their mark, this portion of
Texas was thought to consist of tall-grass prairies. The land displayed
characteristics of the surrounding regions but in a less glamorous form due to
settlements and inadequate rainfall.
Post Oak Savannah:
Post oak
woodlands to prairies constituted the Post Oak region, where rolling slopes
resembled “an ecotone between the eastern deciduous forest and the tall-grass
prairie (Schmidly 2002).” Originally marked by native timber forests, this part
of the region was now used for farming and ranching. The mighty oaks and elm were now confined to
the riverbeds and streams and because of this, mesquite were beginning to
encroach on the open grasslands. Springs
and rivers were abundant in this region of Texas, as were artificial ponds.
Pineywoods:
A large portion of survey work was completed in the eastern
portion of Texas, near the Louisiana border, notably the Big Thicket. “The Big
Thicket forest is a mixture of evergreens, both conifers and hardwoods
(Schmidly 2002).” The survey descriptions of this particular area of
southeastern Texas was so unique that years later a national preserve would be
established to protect it. The author noted that “prairies once were common
where only trees now stand in East Texas”, yet today, “though plowed fields and
mowed pastures abound, hardly a vestige of land remains that would not have
tress if left alone (Schmidly 2002).” Where the timber did not reach, prairies
of gentle pasture grass were allowed to grow for cattle grazing.
After reading these descriptions of the early Texas
landscape, it is easy to long for the days when the land was lush and
prosperous. Not only were the grassland prairies and timber forests impacted by
growth and industry, but the native flora and fauna were hit hard as well. The
surveyors were quick to point out the lack of native vegetation in regions that
resembled un-touched lands of equal soil and climate types. They expected
similar plants and animals to be evident in regions with the same
characteristics, but because of urbanization and farming/ranching, these lands
looked nothing alike. Thus, wildlife equipped to live in grassland prairies or
timber forests were forced to find new, less suitable habitat in order to
survive. Despite the fact that these surveyors were not Texans, reading their
journals and field notes depicted sorrowful emotions at the fate of Texas in
the early 1900s.
Schmidly, D. J. 2002.
Texas Natural History: A Century of Change. Texas Tech University Press. Lubbock, Texas, U.S.A.